Here is a new example of the valuable contributions of the digital technique applied to jewel modelling, particularly with geometrical accuracy of the 3D modelling software to enhance the beauty of the designs.

It was applied to the modelling of a pair of burnished yellow and white gold earrings (total of 29.5 grams), with 1.44 kt of brilliants, 4 pearls of 4mm, 2 pearls of 3.4mm and enamels.


There are plenty of collections of jewels inspired by natural shapes, which in turn, seem to be inspired by mathematical patterns. A snail shell found in the sand reveals the Fibonacci series to us. A cauliflower grows replicating fractal structures. Sunflower seeds are organized in spiralling panels generated in the centre of the flower. In this case, the basis is an object of cosmic dimensions, Hoag's Object, a remote galaxy expanding in a spiral.

Miniaturizing Hoag's Object in order to turn it into a pair of earrings consists of; first of all, allowing oneself to feel impressed by the size of a galaxy with a radius of 20,000 light years. Let's express it in kilometres for a better understanding; the number 19 plus 16 zeros. Then one must allow oneself to be mesmerized by its beauty:




Once we have recovered from the shock, the essential shape (the fragment of a spiral) must be turned into abstract, by means of a mathematical formula and then it must be represented in polar coordinates:


r = 2.2 Θ




We lay this simple base curve on the digital design table, we reproduce it in a beam of concentric spirals and we play with the idea of building surfaces until we obtain the Hoag miniature. The spiral of planets and stars has been turned into a jewel with brilliants, burnished white or yellow gold projections and enamels on the fringes of the infra-red, all of them expanding from a nucleus of pearlescent light.

But getting carried away by inspiration is not everything, as the limitations of craft brings us down to Earth. That is why the miniature is disassembled in four pieces which are ground, burnished, enamelled and set separately before its final assembly.




The final effect: a collection of Hoag concentric spirals, juxtaposed and revolving in symmetrical directions. Without the mathematical accuracy of the base curve, it would be too daring to intend to attain this effect of expansive movement. We would not tackle such a journey equipped with mere traditional techniques.

Once downsized to the original size of the galaxy by a factor of 10 22, we finish by exploring the dark side of the jewel.